Wicked Pies


Let’s talk pizza, as all people of good manners do.

Wicked Pies started out as a truck, and has recently opened a brick-and-mortar location. Other places have had good luck with this in the past, and Wicked neatly follows their tradition. The pizza here is good. Very good. Enough so I’d put it as a viable alternative to Vic’s, which I don’t do lightly.

Illustrative image

As so often is the case, it’s all about the crust. Here, Wicked serves one that looks oddly white, almost to the point where you’d expect it’d be doughy. It’s not. Instead, the outside has a crunchy bite, giving way to a chewy center. It’s what we collectively, as a society, should want: a crust for the people.

The flavor is spot on. Any proper crust, with olive oil or another favorite accouterment, should be able to be enjoyed by itself. Wicked passes that test.

Crust aside, the pies as a whole are tasty. The White Lodge comes with a rosemary potato base, which, when paired with Gorgonzola, has a pungent profile in all the right ways. Fortifying it with olive oil creates a surprisingly light, yet solid palate. It’s not what food comas are made of, despite what the ingredient list might suggest, and it’s impressive that the potent flavors don’t come through as a smack in the face.

Also worth a look are The Log Lady Breadstyx, which, as one may (or may not) expect, are served as logs. The addition of either mozzarella or pesto is laudable, but the logs could easily be enjoyed al natural.

True, naming the menu items after Twin Peaks might be a bit played out, but I’ll give them a pass. I mean, it’s Twin Peaks. Come on!1

The prices are a titch higher than at some spots — $14.75 for a cheese — but the quality of the ingredients holds its own.

Take out or eat in — the locales are charmingly sparse, not unlike pizza spots we’ve seen in both Northern and Southern Europe. Nothing overly fancy, just a comfortable space.

It worries me that Wicked isn’t too busy. I suppose it is hard to spot in its anonymous Franklin location, and competition from the well-established Old School must take its toll, too. Therefore: Do us a solid, and give Wicked Pies a try. It’s a pizzeria that deserves to flourish, and its pies are vastly different from Old School’s. Downtown Olympia’s food scene could stand some differentiation2, and high quality picks like this can only benefit all of us.

1 It only seems appropriate, Seeing The Return revealed Olympia as the starting point of the Blue Rose case.

2 Say what you want about Lacey, but their food scene both varied and international.